Anybody roll your own arrows?

[Polytech]

I have a compound that I am shooting carbons out of, but I am probably going to sell it and concentrate on my longbow (55lb @28") And I have been considering using the proceeds from the compound to get the arrow building equipment. It will probably be mostly cedar/wood arrows. I'm just wondering if it worth the time and investment to "roll my own" or if I should just order assembled ones? Please share your experiences with making your own! [img]/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

[Kevin]

You'll need to make your own, if for no other reason than to repair the ones when the points fall off, or the fletch goes south. It's pretty easy.

[neargeezer]

To add to Kevin’s good info, you will also want to roll your own for tuning your arrows to your bow. To get them to fly correctly you will need to start with a longer shaft in you spine and trim a quarter inch at a time. Each time you will need to re-taper the point end. You will also find yourself trying other arrow woods. I have used ash and laminated birch. Both are much tougher than cedar for stump shooting, which is my favorite pastime. I also use two carbon shafts. The Grizzly Stiks and the Carbon Express Heritage. Both fly well and are very tuff! It is enjoyable to create different weight arrows for special purposes. Say a light carbon or cedar shaft for antelope, or a heavy laminated birch or weighted Grizzly Stik for elk. After a little learning curve, you’ll probably decide that you make the best arrow for your bow. Good luck and enjoy. Terry

[elmbow]

Polytech, there's certainly a "magic" to wood arrows and I do "roll my own". I don't hunt with them these days but did for many years and would have no problem doing so again. I see no disadvantage in wooden shafts for hunting at traditional ranges. My son uses them exclusively. I have tried some of the different shafting, Doug Fir, Ash and Chundoo and I keep coming back to Port Orford because it's inexpensive, light, easy to straighten and smells great. The Chundoo and Doug fir are excellent if you want a heavy arrow for penetration, especially from a tree stand.
If you shoot a lot you can plan on going through 3-4 doz arrows a year. You can't interchange nocks and points with carbon or aluminum so you'll need to buy shafts, field points, judos, broadheads, feathers and nocks. Purchase everything except broadheads and judos in quantities of 100 to save money. You need a taper tool, the Tru-Center tool for about $25 works great for what you'll shoot each year. You can spend $120 and get the power one but you don't need it. A fine toothed small hand saw works fine for cutting to length. I don't use a spine tester, I make do with the spine weights as they come. You'll get about 10% loss in your shafts due to crookedness but mostly you can straighten shafts to shoot well and I do it by hand, I don't use any tools although they make some inexpensive ones. Buy the Bitzenberger fletching tool, you'll never regret it. You need it even if you shoot carbon or alum. I highly recommend you buy a cresting kit. There's nothing more satisfying that creating your own personalized arrow design. I use the Bohning products for finishing my arrows but there are other systems. The gasket laquer system seems to be popular these days. Rolling your own can be just a means to an end or it can become a consuming hobby, that's up to you. Without a doubt though, you can build a better wooden arrow for much less money than you can buy, just like reloading. Make a list of everything you'll need and go to a place like Three Rivers Archery and price it all out. You'll be in the neighborhood of $300 to build 3 doz. arrows and have all your equipment to continue on. The Leatherwall has some good articles on arrow building,there are good books available and of course this forum here will be immeasurably helpful to you as there are so many good knowledgeable people here to lend a hand. Good luck! Here is a pic of mine and my boy's current arrow designs.

[Chris57]

Any of you use a 4 fletch?

I do. I like that I don't have to look at my arrow when nocking, the feathers set the same way no matter which way you nock the arrow.

You need to use 4" feathers, which seem to be increasingly harder to find.

Just food for thought.

(edit) BTW Elmbow, beautiful arrows!

[Polytech]

Thanks for the info guys, I'll probably get started at the first of the year. Thanks

Polytech