More carbon shaft questions

[elmbow]

Got all of our materials and we built up a half dozen arrows for my boy. I haven't weighed them but they fly like lightning bolts. No weights, just the uni nocks that they came with, and IIRC 5/16 field points that a skosh to large which causes them to catch when pulling from target. Why can't they make these things in universal diameters? Do I have to go back to Carbon Express and buy their proprietary filed points, or what?

[DanAdair]

You could foot them with a chunk of 2216...

[Lost Arra]

Point weight? I use 225gr field points (cheap generic 3Rivers) in CE Heritage 250's and have no target pulling problems. The heavier points are tapered down to where they meet the insert. Of course it could be the target. All of my targets are stuffed 100# coffee bags or Rineharts.

You're sure they are 5/16?

[elmbow]

Yup, 5/16". I bought a 100 pack from 3 rivers. I did the math and they were the closest in diameter to the CE 250's and they are a bit too large. No problem pulling from foam piggy, but they catch on the poly? fabric of the field target. It is irritating. I don't want to screw around with footing them with pieces of alum tubing, I just want a field point the same diameter as the arrow shaft. why is that hard to do????
I looked on their webpage, they have a gazillion points. Not one of them looks like a screw in point that lets me unscrew it and screw in a broadhead. They're closed today, I'm going to call them tomorrow.

[falcon]

Did you call today? They make 9/32 and even 17/64 points for my Axis arrows in 100 and 125 gr. I often use the bigger points up to 250 gr. which come tapered at the back like Lost Arra suggests. Our outdoor range has butts made with carpet faces and some that are stuffed with kevlar bags, they suck to pull those points from.

Things might be different lately, I know I couldn't get everything I wanted from one place, had to shop around. Once you get lined out it lasts alot longer than cartridge ammo though.

Wish I thought to use my phone or carry a camera, went to a two day trad shoot last weekend and saw some very nice carbon arrows "crested" with wraps and two tone feather cuts. It's a different day in the stick and string world.

[elmbow]

we used the wraps on my boy's arrows and then we used Testors paint for the cresting. it worked well. Super glue for the fletch, but the super glue kinda sucks for doing that little smear of glue on the front of the feather that I like to do that helps keep the feather front edge from catching and lifting off.

I got busy today and didn't make the call. Tomorrow. I like the idea of the field point that tapers in the back to the shaft diameter if you need a heavier point.

[Lost Arra]

falcon: no one ever describes my arrows as "artistic"! I sprayed a cap on a couple of shafts last night. Used a flat no-gloss yellow rustoleum for plastic. I wanted to see if they were more visible in flight in low light situations without having the neon brightness of most glossy caps or wraps. With the right fletching I think it helps. I will also say that the Frog Tape does a much better job than the regular blue 3M painters tape.

I'm always torn when trying to stay "hidden" from a deer at 15 yds while holding a bow with a quiver full of BRIGHTLY COLORED ARROWS. Which is the reason I'm trying a fletch cover this year.

[elmbow]

....I'm always torn when trying to stay "hidden" from a deer at 15 yds while holding a bow with a quiver full of BRIGHTLY COLORED ARROWS. .....

There are certain requirements in life and one just accepts them. One's arrows simply need to be personalized, As Geronimo once said, "that's MY arrow pokin' out the side of that pony soldier, fool!"

[KurtB]

Interesting thread. I feel kind of lucky in that the bowyer who built my bow recommended the arrow and point to start with. It was exactly what I needed and I have been able to just shoot without messing around too much. Hoping to try a few broadheads soon so I have no surprises come late August. All of this archery stuff is pretty relaxing and have been enjoying tugging on that bowstring more than ever this year.

Be nice to have another archery bighorn tag this year....

[elmbow]

OK, I called CX. Field point size is 19/64", sheesh, who ever heard of such a thing? So it looks like I can buy the CX points for about $4/doz plus shipping and they aren't found on a lot of web stores; so.... I went to trad gang and found Easton shaft sizes for "footing' the damn things. It looks like its 2216's and I have some of those laying around, so piss on CX's little 19/64's points, I'll foot the shafts, which doesn't look like a big deal, just do it when I'm gluing in the insert. It will make them stronger, add a little weight up front and I'll get to use normal field points. After doing a little more reading, it seems that the achilles heel of carbon shafts is their tendency to explode when a point hits something hard, driving it back into the shaft. The alum footing looks like it really helps in that regard. I've read that folks foot anywhere from 1/2" to 2". I like the idea of extending the footing tube past the end of the insert. In my mind that would be a weak point in the shaft, but I'm open to suggestions on that.

Now here's one more question that gets back to the oversized field points. If I foot the shaft with a 2216 arrow section, then all of a sudden I'm back to a lip on the back end of the foot that is larger than the lip of the 5/16" field point, so while the shaft is stronger now, it still is going to be a PITA to pull from targets.