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sdyotehunter
03-20-2005, 11:58 AM
A couple of weeks ago I started a post to find out what knives people were using. As a result of that post I became intrigued by the Swiss Army Victorinox Hunter and am considering buying one. After looking at them and seeing all the different prices I'm wondering if there is just one model of the knife, or if there are several different models. If there are different models of the knife which is best? Do the different colored handles mean anything, or is it just cosmetic? Where is the best place to buy one of these knives? Thanks for the help.

Kevin B
03-20-2005, 01:16 PM
colors are cosmetic. I have red because I can see it on the ground. I bought a 2 knife package on Ebay for $25 total. Ebay has good deals on them but on average you are going to pay $20 a knife or better.

sdyotehunter
03-20-2005, 05:00 PM
Kevin B...thanks for the input. Are there different models of the knives, or do they all have the same features?

Kevin B
03-20-2005, 05:38 PM
You can go to osograndknives.com and then look at their victorinox line.. they have them all. There's tons of versions. The Hunter is preferred by elk hunters and 1 knife guys because you get a lockging back knife in 4 inch blade, with a 4 inch saw that's more than enough for sternum work or small firewood cutting. It also has another curved blade for skinning etc.

I used a "camping" model last year on 4 whitetails wtihout any complaint. Except that it isn't a lock back. But it's a 3 inch model and not what I'd want for elk and I wouldn't substitute it for a folding saw where I might the hunter. Anyhhow, they make good and useful knifes depending on how you plan to use em.

sdyotehunter
03-21-2005, 08:47 AM
Thanks, Kevin B. That was what I wanted to know.

sdyotehunter
03-21-2005, 05:17 PM
Kevin B,
Just spent some time on eBay checking out the Hunter knives. The seller told me the blade on his knife was 8.5cm. According to my math that converts to about 3.25 inches or so. You had said in an earlier post that the blade on your Hunter was 4 inches and that makes me wonder if the one I'm looking at on eBay is the same model. Any help?

Kevin B
03-22-2005, 06:33 AM
That may be correct Sdyote... I'd measure mine to be sure but, everthing I own is getting or is already in boxes. In either event, the Hunter length is the "size up" from the smaller models and most of the smaller ones aren't lock back.

Ralph
03-22-2005, 07:52 AM
The maker's nominal size includes the hinge pin portion. So the Hunter (and other lockblade models measures 4" as an intact blade with about a 3-1/4" cutting edge measured from the grind shoulder to the tip. All folders are listed this way, BTW. General rule is take the maker's measure and subtract about 3/4" to get the effective blade length.

Just came across an interesting little diamond hone at WalMart about $10. Pen-type with aluminum cylinder as handle/sheath. Double end. One side a long pointed cone for serrated edges, the other flat on one side, full 1/4" half-circle on the other with a fish hook sharpening slot in the center of the curved side. I estimate the grit is about medium-fine diamond dust in a nickle substrate. Length overall about 6".

I'd like it a little finer, but new ones always feel rougher and smooth down in use.

sdyotehunter
03-22-2005, 10:52 AM
Thanks to you all. I didn't know that folding blades were measured that way.
Ralph, as for the hone you found at WalMart...I've used one for years to touch up my broad heads...not serious sharpening, just in-the-field touch ups. My hone is an Easy-lap.

Ralph
03-22-2005, 05:21 PM
My Easy-Lap has been transferred to the survival kit. The new one from WalMart is larger and gives me the cone for serrations.

I also noticed that WalMart has added 6" diamond bench hones. I've used a 6" DMT hone for years for any serious sharpening/reshaping. Much easier and quicker than the smaller ones.

Bill
03-22-2005, 06:45 PM
Has anyone tried using the saw in the Hunter Victorinox to cut the skull cap off an animal?

Kevin
03-22-2005, 06:56 PM
I've used it on a couple of deer, nothing bigger.

Sundles
03-22-2005, 11:58 PM
I've never understood taking the time and energy to cut small fire wood with a hand saw. Heck, break it and throw it on. If you cant break it, throw it on any way and slide the rest of it on as it burns shorter.

Dave R.
03-23-2005, 10:23 AM
Bill...I have not. I have used it to cut through pelvis bones on white tail deer...it takes a little longer that a larger bone saw, but it gets the job done. The thing you need to consider is the length...is it long enough to get the job done on the skulls that you are dealing with??? If so, its plenty sharp.

Dave

Caligula
06-17-2005, 07:11 PM
Hi ,
I would have to agree with Sundles about hacking small firewood with a saw.
If it cannot be broken by hand then place poles between two close trees and walk it (lever it ) until it breaks.

I use a ringsaw for a number of jobs. Fot those who have not come across them , it is a length of usually braided or sometimes studded wire with 2 rings ( around 1 1/2 " dia.) on each end.
Cutting is accomplished by either notching a springy piece of wood and making a bow or by simply pulling using index fingers.
I also use it (as does Dave , above) for sawing the spine and pelvis of Sambar - although most time now I am 'boning-out'.

On sharpeners ,
I like the small Eze-lap diamond rod described above , it can last some 2 years with 2-weekly use on D2 and 440C.

On Folders ,
I like the Kershaw folders because of the steel and construction. I am a bit conservative with a fixed-blade and cannot find much better than a Randall unless I make it myself to my specs - but I keep giveing them away.........[g]
Regards..............Caligula

Kevin B
06-17-2005, 09:08 PM
Cali, I think the issue is the kifaru stove ala cutting wood. If we're talking about an open fire, no one will cut wood. However when you are trying to feed a stove of limited size and you want that 2 inch or 3 inch stuff in lengths that fit the box so that you aren't feeding pencil size stuff all night.... you might need a saw. Hard to break 2 1/2 inch wood in 10 inch sections.

Where I high hunt there's no squaw wood and stuff can be very wet. even small stuff doesn't break easy. Locale is important. Anyhow, if you want long burning stuff for a stove, a small saw (not just a hunter knife one) is handy. I love my folding saw for that reason and take it most of the time.

Caligula
06-17-2005, 10:58 PM
Thanks Kev ,
You're right , I did not appreciate the wood length thing.
Apart from the High Plains huts ,I have always used open fires or gas stoves (propane/butane).
Regards..........Caligula

Crossfire
06-18-2005, 02:00 AM
Folding Saws . A tool close to my forest farmers heart .
Japanese saw blades cut on the pull stroke so they can be thinner and lighter than western style saws.
Best ones are thicker in section at the tooth side and thinner in the back. So they cut without much friction with a very narrow kerf .
Best of all have teeth sharpened on three sides .
Very productive tools . Don't settle for two sides .
Get ' impulse hardened ' if you can .
Gerber and Fiskars use Japanese blades in their folding saws . Sweet as ( as we say here ) .

See you

PM

beta male
06-18-2005, 03:17 AM
sdyotehunter, Victorinox makes a huntsman and a hunter, the latter is the one most people here favor.

On sawing wood, you can use the pocketknife saw to make a cut about 1/4 through the branch, then whack it against a rock, tree, etc. This splits the branch lengthwise and exposes dry wood along with diameter reduction.

sdyotehunter
06-19-2005, 06:12 AM
Beta,
I have since purchased a Hunter and really like it. Thanks.

06-19-2005, 07:38 AM
Have to say that I don't understand why many of you use these "multi-tool" type things for knives. Personally I gotta have a real knife and my choice is Strider.
To me a knife is such an important tool that I want it to be the real deal. I just can't take these multi tools seriously as a knife. I get the weight savings idea but.....
Maybe someone can convince me, I just don't get it..

Res.

Kevin B
06-19-2005, 08:05 AM
Maybe if you define what makes a "real knife" and "multi tool" including how one isn't a real knife?

Lots of game has been processed by a lot of folks here on victorinox knives and they aren't the type of folk to tolerate chincy or gimick gear. What's your complaint/concern with the hunter knife and then someone can tell you their experience?

Caligula
06-19-2005, 08:53 AM
Hi ,
I see a little of both sides.

I would see a knife as a tool before a weapon. It would have to be very close before being considered as a weapon.
Anyone who throws a perfectly good knife has a problem. The ability to use such a weapon takes some time to practice and is not learned easily , nor from a 'Home Studies' DIY DVD.

There are several tasks to which a knife may be assigned .
They include cutting , shaping , sawing , skinning , boning , sharpening , chopping and possibly surgery ( and many others).
There exist specialised knives for all these tasks. Very few knives are within the design parameters to do many more than a couple.
THEN , there is the user skill/ ability/ technique to be able to use the tool effectively.
Many consider it a manly virtue - and like shooting , rooting ( in Australia that means screwing) and driving - young men are presumed to know this instinctively , that is , it is inscribed genetically. [g]

I would consider then , that many people carry knives in the bush. Only a few have the skill to fully implement the potential of the knife they carry - and fewer still have that marvellous ability to make their knive fulfil several functions - and superlatively !

Such a person could carry a Leatherman , a Mississippi Folder or a K-Bar and be able to do damn near anything asked of it.
Others may not.

So it may not be just the right knife for the job - but the right man for the knife............

Regards.................Caligula

Ralph
06-19-2005, 09:54 AM
As for a "real" knife. I find the knife blades on the multi-tools awkward to use because of the grip that generally offsets the blade from the handle in an uncomfortable way for me. The SOG Paratool I carry has the drop-point blade removed to make room for the more useful specialty blades.

I almost always have a fixed blade knife on my belt anyhow and, if I don't, I have a Cold Steel large Clipmate for utility cutting and slicing.

My view on this is the knife is THE basic tool and may even predate the club as man's first tool.

Caligula
06-19-2005, 11:57 PM
Ralph <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> My view on this is the knife is THE basic tool and may even predate the club as man's first tool.
</div></div>Yes mate ,
You may well be right.
My Prof in Prehistory/Archaeology had students chip knives firstly from thick broken bottles , then from quartz and then from obsidian.

We were trying to get a feel for the processes early hominids used around 2,300,000 yrs BP in the Lake Rudolph area in Africa.
'Hammers' or striking/crushing stones were obviously earlier but very much predated stones with the incised grooves needed to affix them to a haft - the first 'clubs' with a mechanical advantage.

Spears were a later adaption and it was considered that the muscular articulation needed to throw a spear was a more sophisticated requirement than that required for thrusting or stabbing.....and may have occurred some millennia later.

One of the sillier things I did as a young man was to hunt wild pigs (boar) with a spear.
It is very dangerous for one or three men but ' a piece of piss' for a dozen.

Original point made by Ralph........one of the essentials to life away from the crutches of society ...is a cutting tool.

Regards......................Caligula