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HarpT
12-02-2013, 04:48 PM
I need about a square foot of hypalon for some guy out tabs I'm sewing on my tarp. Anybody know where to get a small amount such as?

robcollins
12-02-2013, 05:52 PM
This seems to be the cheapest I can find, but not much info about quantity. The type A is Hypalon repair. Might be worth a call to these guys, they build foldable kayaks...

http://www.folbot.com/product_p/tear-aid-fabric-repair.htm

Also may be worth a call to Kifaru, I know it's used in the lumbar region on their packs...

HarpT
12-02-2013, 09:12 PM
This seems to be the cheapest I can find, but not much info about quantity. The type A is Hypalon repair. Might be worth a call to these guys, they build foldable kayaks...

http://www.folbot.com/product_p/tear-aid-fabric-repair.htm

Also may be worth a call to Kifaru, I know it's used in the lumbar region on their packs...

Thanks. I'll check it out. I think most people use nylon to reinforce the tarp material when putting in new tabs in places where there is no seam, but I just figured hypalon would work better because it's stronger. Got any first hand experience with this?

chopchop
12-02-2013, 09:13 PM
You can get hypalon from NRS.com, which is a company that makes inflatable rafts for whitewater etc. They call their stuff "Pennel Orca", and it can be had fairly cheaply by the foot or in 18"x6" pieces in various thicknesses (1100d, 1670d, and maybe something else).

I've used NRS patch kits and tie downs before, and they work great. I haven't tried the fabric by itself. I've been thinking about buying a piece to make one of my granite gear bags easier to put on my bikini frame, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

robcollins
12-02-2013, 10:13 PM
I've never played with it & don't know about adhesives either, I'd probably use spider wire to sew in a loop of para cord, I've seen that done somewhere. Burn the ends & get out the speedy stitcher.

HarpT
12-02-2013, 11:17 PM
I've never played with it & don't know about adhesives either, I'd probably use spider wire to sew in a loop of para cord, I've seen that done somewhere. Burn the ends & get out the speedy stitcher.

The other tabs appear to be made of half inch (approx.) cordura or nylon web. Fairly thick. I'll follow this pattern to keep it uniform and I like being able to hem under the end being sewn for increased strength. I'm sure some good 525d nylon like the stuff Kifaru uses would be strong enough, but I like to make entirely sure on stuff like this. The hypalon or nylon is to sew a box (about 2" square) into the tarp at the place where the tab will be. Then sewing the tab loop in the middle of the box with a very strong stitch. This way the hypalon and tarp material are sewn together so the guy out point doesn't tear through the tarp when pulled tight. I'm sure you already knew that, but I'm just mentioning it anyway for anyone else reading.

firecog
12-03-2013, 11:23 AM
Check out fleabay. I picked some up recently from the seller octactical, he had both 35 and 16 oz for a great price, but I'm not sure if he is till selling it. I picked up the 35 oz, which would definitely be too heavy and stiff for what you're looking for.
Other sellers may also have some.
Outdoor wilderness fabrics also sells it, although it's a bit higher priced per yard, however, they have both weights and will sell in fractions of a yard.
Even the 16 oz might be overkill, I think most tarp makers use nylon. Dyneema ripstop might also work well, and UL approved, too.

HarpT
12-03-2013, 05:31 PM
Check out fleabay. I picked some up recently from the seller octactical, he had both 35 and 16 oz for a great price, but I'm not sure if he is till selling it. I picked up the 35 oz, which would definitely be too heavy and stiff for what you're looking for.
Other sellers may also have some.
Outdoor wilderness fabrics also sells it, although it's a bit higher priced per yard, however, they have both weights and will sell in fractions of a yard.
Even the 16 oz might be overkill, I think most tarp makers use nylon. Dyneema ripstop might also work well, and UL approved, too.

Not a bad idea. I think I might try using the dyneema. Is that stuff waterproof? Also, I think I'll order the pieces of silny for my hot tent (can't find what happened to that thread) from OWF. I thought the 60" width of the roll was gonna be too short, but then realized because of the "catenary curves" on the tarp that I will have to sew an extra guy out point about 4 inches above the center tab on either side and one on each end (total=6) so that the edges will be flush with the ground. I'll just fold the extra material at the corners and center inside the tent so there's a smooth edge on the outside. This will make the 60" width sufficient because the bottom or ground edge of the annex will be sewn 3 or 4 inches above the bottom corner of the tarp. I will also sew two more guy outs on each side higher up to give an option of increasing interior space. And I will add two more on each side at the top of the catenary curve in the hem on the edges for a total of 5 stake out options on either side.

I will probably sew tabs not only at the point or tip (furthest guy out point inline with ridge) of each annex but midway point along ground edge. However, the edge will be straight and not cut at two different angles. If cut at differentiating angles to allow annex more interior space by pulling midway guy out point further, it would create a problem when having it strung over a hammock because just stretching the ridge line secure wouldn't eliminate the flap left in the material. It would have to be guyed out as well from the middle tabs which doesn't seem practical. I might try giving the annexes catenary curves as well to match the design and for using with a hammock. Tabs could be sewn a few inches up from the edges at the ends of the curve and in the middle on the hem at the top of the curve to allow an even edge when set up on the ground same as previously described.

I guess it depends on if I can get the 60" roll to do that for me 'cause I really don't want to use black fabric (which was all I could find in a wider roll.) OWF has a nice shade of green that should blend well with my woodland camo tarp. I will also have to set up the tarp as is presently with the hammock to determine the actual distance acceptable to have the annex extend past the standard length of the tarp on the ends (without bringing it too close to the tree when guyed out.) I'm thinking 3 feet max, but I'll check and see. This will also depend on the place I'm hanging or how far apart the trees I'm hanging from are. I should be able to get a general idea and in tighter spaces just won't use the annex (I guess). I'll have something to tie it back or Velcro it when not in use. It is usually spread wider when above the hammock than when on the ground, so by measuring the distance across one end from corner to corner I get an idea of the angle and the difference it will make when on the ground (will extend further when on the ground because of the more upright angle).

HarpT
12-04-2013, 01:58 PM
This is a diagram of the pattern.

13964

HarpT
12-13-2013, 09:46 PM
Thanks to everyone who replied in this post. But, I just got a Warbonnet Superfly in a trade so I'm gonna set it up and see what I have to work with. I think I'll just put the stove jack in one of the doors. This'll be a lot easier than doing all the mods to make my other tarp function as a hot tent.