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eric
05-07-2003, 09:19 AM
Hi everybody, I know this question has been answered on the board before, but I cannot seem to find it in the archives :rolleyes. I have purchased the 12 man ultralight and I am about to do the seam sealing to it.There was some disscusion on using silicone sealant, the stuff you buy from the hardware stores, I wanted to make sure I will be using the right stuff and not screwing the tipi up:eek. Anybody that can enlighten me to the proper way to do this please do so:D Thanks in advance Eric

buck
05-07-2003, 10:01 AM
I don't know about the earlier discussion--all I know is that I received two tubes of silicon (kitchen, bathroom caulk) and used that per the instructions provided.
I pitched the tipi inside out and applied it liberally. I used it shortly after and it rained heavily and not a drop inside.

I don't know if there are considerations to particular silicons with regard to chemical reactions. If I were to ever seal it again I would call and ask what is the latest, best sealant.

eric
05-07-2003, 08:24 PM
Thanks Buck, what was the reasoning for turning the tipi inside out? Did the silicon sealant come with the tipi? the only reason I ask is that my tipi should be arriving any day now, just curios.What size tipi do you own and how happy are you with it. Cant wait for mine to arrive and try that baby out!!!

William Clunie
05-08-2003, 07:14 AM
I just got an eight man tipi and will seal it as soon as we get some dry weather. It is done with the tipi erected inside out so that you can use a step ladder to reach the very top. I received the proper sealant with the tipi. You are getting way too far ahead of yourself. Sit back, relax, and before you know it, you'll be enjoying the comfort of your new tipi.

Dale Lindsley
05-08-2003, 07:52 AM
Some people have recomended cutting the silicone sealant 50/50 with paint thinner. I tried this when doing some minor re-sealing on my paratipi and it seemed to work very well.

buck
05-12-2003, 04:12 PM
Eric,

I have an 8-man ultralight. The concept and design is embarrasingly simple and well thought-out, respectively.
I've tried very hard to find something wrong with the tipi itself, and I cannot. Just use common sense when setting it up on uneven ground and realize that the material sags a little when going from dry to wet.
The only question that I have concerning the tipi is how tight can it be made without undo stress?

The stove, on the other hand, takes a little getting used to for ideal operation. For example, I was out the other day and upon initial startup I had puffs of black smoke coming out from under the top for the first ten minutes then it performed wonderfully for hours. The next day I had no smoke at start up??? I think part of the issue there is with the wind and draft.

One of the keys that I have found with the large stove is using material that is between thumb and wrist sized. Trying to load it up with wrist, or better,sized will cause it to leak smoke. If I do put in a big piece it's only after it has a good bed of coals and I keep adding small stuff.

I think that some people forget the idea behind the whole invention. They think because they spent double on a tipi system vs. a backpacking tent that they will have complete comfort and convenience out in the field, just like they're sitting in their living room.
There are always going to be some inherent problems with backpacking equipment because of the scaled-down designs and light weight materials.

However, having said that, I personally feel that, just in the winter camping/hunting ability that I now have, that it is well worth the price, forget the rest of the year.

BB

Patrick
05-13-2003, 06:22 AM
Buck--

The sag when going from dry to wet can be addressed by raising the center pole a notch or two. A couple of notches will definitely re-stiffen the profile and not strain the tipi. If you can remember, lower the pole as things start to dry out, otherwise the dried-again pitch will be like a bass drum. But it's no big deal if you forget--I've seen this many times and the worst that can happen is the center pole resembles an arc and you'll start to pull pegs out of the ground. Still, it's best to try to lower it again--who wants pegs that are slightly loose? Even in slightly saggy position the tipi won't blow away; I guess the main reason for keeping it taut via raising the pole is to keep it quiet in wind. But it's not a "noisy" tent at all either way.

Looks like you're getting the hang of the stove. There's only so much we can tell you in the instructions that come with the stove--and nobody really reads intructions anyway. You have it right: on a brand new burn don't put the big wood in 'til you have a base of coals. You'll never have smoke again.

eric
05-13-2003, 08:33 PM
Hello everybody, and thanks for all the help, I did recieve my Tipi yesterday. Set that BABY up right away and all I can say is AWSOME AWSOME AWSOME. Only question I have is about the initional burn in the new stove, how hot and for how long,I got the stove hot enough so the collar turned orange I figured that should have been hot enough, not sure about that though. When that stove starts turning that colour things start looking like we need a pail of water real quick like? Any advice or maybe its all okay?

Patrick
05-14-2003, 05:47 AM
Eric--

All the first burn needs to do is change the color of the roll-up stovepipe from silver to tan/brown. The pipe will then be forever obedient about assuming it's tubular in-use shape. Doesn't really take all that long. A thirty minute moderate burn should do it. Or just watch for that color change. If the pipe wants to assume that tubular shape when you roll it out you have done the deal.

Your call-the-fire-brigade reaction is universal. But, like everybody else, you now know that the tipi and the stove do NOT go up in a ball of fire! Neat, eh? Go forth and be warm. Cook good grub on the stove. Shoot straight.

Patrick