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View Full Version : Straight Scopes



JLBrush7x57
02-17-2003, 09:07 AM
Hello all. I've been reading this board for a couple of years but this is the first time I've posted. It's been so informative reading everyone's else's stuff that most of my questions have been answered before I had to ask.

I installed the scope on my rifle myself and it's tuned close enough that I have no room to blame any mistakes on the equipment. The problem is the scope is canted just a hair. It's obvious that this is not causing a substantial accuracy problem but it drives me nuts. It seems that no matted how careful I am when I line it up it always ends up tilted just enough to be noticeable.

The guy at the local gun store does not recommend the B-Square gadget that I was thinking of getting. Do any of you have tips, tricks, or gadget recommendations for leveling canted scopes?

Thanks for the help and thanks for all the previous information shared.

Dan D
02-17-2003, 11:43 AM
Cabelas as well as Midway (and probably others) sell a device called a reticle leveler, has a cross bar that fits on the base and wings on the side with hash marks on them. It is cheap and seams to work ok, I have used it twice with good results. Dan

Flamingo 7
02-17-2003, 01:26 PM
After doing a few of these I found the best way to level a scope was to tighten the rings so that you could just turn the scope by hand (friction fit)bring the gun up quickly and sight in on a corner where two walls come togeather. The line formed by the angle (if the walls are close to true) will show you if the scope is level. Try it a couple of times as it's tempting to cant the rifle to match the line, but it's mych cheaper and reliable than a leveling device. A leveling device will truely level the scope to the gun, but meny shooters naturally cant the gun when shouldered and unless you routinly shoot bullseye matches at distances greater than 800 yards, my guess is that a bit of cant to match your style will go unnoticed.

alpine_ingenuity
02-20-2003, 11:25 PM
Another technique that you can use without buying anything is to snug the rings just enough to prevent easy scope movement, and get the crosshairs as close as possible without being too particular about it. Make sure your eye relief is good with your normal cheek weld and your scope is focused. Then, remove your bolt. With the gun held out supported on something (I use a Midway Gun Vise setting on my bench) at about arms length and looking toward something bright, close your non-firing eye and look at the scope. You will see your crosshairs and a small circle of light in the scope. Now look through your bore. OK, now position yourself to see the circle of light in the scope and the light through the bore at the same time. The circle of light in the scope will be at the top of the scope, and that is normal. Remember that all we are worried about is left and right variation, not up and down. (Sounds more complicated than it is). Keep the verticle crosshair centered in the circle of light, and move the scope until an imaginary line extending down from your vertical crosshair intersects the center of the bore. This will take a couple of attempts. Your scope is level when that imaginary line from the vertical crosshair intersects the bore while the circle of light in your scope is bisected by your vertical crosshair. The perfectly bisected circle of light is simply ensuring you have not introduced too much parallex error when you are moving your head around behind the gun. I checked all my scopes that were mounted this way with a scope leveler and they were right on the money. After doing this, re-check by looking through your non-firing eye. It should still look good. Now shoulder the rifle to do your final check. Make any minor adjustments. Then tighten your scope rings around the scope. Here is where there is potential for problems. If the scope rings are not tightened successively a little at a time, the clamping pressure can move the scope, causing it to cant as you tighten it. This may be what is happening to you. This problem is aggravated if your scope rings are not lapped, or if the front and rear rings are not in perfect alignment. Check that out before proceeding. If this is the case then it is best to fix it or your scope may end up stressed, which explains why a lot of weaker scopes sometimes don't repeat zeroes after moving adjustment dials. When the scope is in a bind, sometimes adjustments seem to have no effect for several clicks and then your group seems to jump rapidly after a minor adjustment. If you don't have alignment and lapping tools, Wheeler Engineering makes a decent set for a reasonable price, (Midway carries them) although there are many others on the market. The minor expense of lapping and aligning is justified by the cost of your rifle and scope, or worse, the price of a missed shot or wounded animal. Take care, Bill